This time, we’re going to talk about How To Test For Amperage Draw. There is a lot of information about Multimeter Symbol on the internet, of course. Social media are getting better and better quickly, which makes it easier for us to learn new things.

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27 Tips for How To Test For Amperage Draw | how to test for current draw

  • Answer: It seems the battery is unable to hold the charge. You may need to test the battery first. You can do it yourself using a hydrometer. This other post may help: - Source: Internet
  • When ready, start with the fuses in the under-hood fuse box, if equipped. Then, test the fuses under the dashboard. Circuits with no current flow will read 0.0 mV of voltage drop. If you detect any amount of voltage drop, make a note of the amount, fuse amperage rating (for example 5, 10, 15A) and the circuit it protects. - Source: Internet
  • A very good method of finding circuits with current flowing is to use a digital voltmeter and test the voltage drop across each fuse in the vehicle until the problem circuit is found. Any electrical circuit with current flowing has some voltage drop in the circuit, so this is something that can be used for diagnostic purposes. In the case of using a voltage drop test across a fuse, the DVOM should be set at the lowest millivolt scale and each fuse should be tested for voltage drop. - Source: Internet
  • To begin the amperage method test, disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery terminal. This is the black cable connected to the battery post with the negative (-) sign next to it. Then, connect your digital meter’s ground (black) probe to the negative battery post. - Source: Internet
  • Gain access to the point where the power cord connects to the refrigerator. If the conductors are bundled with other wires, separate one conductor wire and keep it isolated. Currents flowing though wires running in close proximity to the one under test may influence your readings. - Source: Internet
  • Reading within range: If your reading is within range, you’re probably dealing with a faulty charging system or battery. To do a quick alternator drain power check using your digital multimeter, go to the section Bad Alternator Diode Test below. Then, if your alternator passes the test, do a battery check using a hydrometer tool as described in the Car Battery Hydrometer Test section. - Source: Internet
  • Reading above range: A higher amperage reading means you have a problem in one or more of the electrical circuits. Continue with the next steps and leave your multimeter connected to the battery. Use a pair of plastic clamps to hold the meter probes to the battery terminals, or ask an assistant for help. - Source: Internet
  • Begin with the under-hood fuse box, if there’s one. Pull one of the fuses and watch your meter’s reading. Then re-install the fuse. Keep pulling fuses one at a time until you see the unusual amperage reading on your meter go down to within normal range. When this happens, the circuit that fuse protects is faulty. - Source: Internet
  • Some manufacturers recommend the use of a preinstalled battery cable parallel switch tool to negate the need to disconnect the battery after the test drive. I prefer to use an inductive current probe and digital multimeter (DMM) or scope to make more varied and targeted measurements. Use the current probe according to the method outlined in the October 2007 Scope & Scan column “Don’t Blow Your Fuse” to find the exact offending circuit and component. - Source: Internet
  • The first test—the amperage battery drain test—is best suited for older vehicle models, 1990s and older, that come equipped with one or two computer modules. With newer cars with more control modules, usually you need to wait 30 minutes or so for the modules to turn off. And even then, you may “awaken” one or more modules while conducting a battery drain test. For this type of vehicle model—and older models as well if you wish—use the voltage drop battery drain test described in the next section. - Source: Internet
  • From time to time, I see vehicles with a complaint of the battery going dead if the vehicle isn’t driven every day or so. Many times, the vehicle will have a new battery or generator installed, or even a battery and a generator, yet the “it still does the same thing” complaint persists. When this happens, the thought always crosses my mind, “I wonder how much testing was done to find the real problem before the vehicle was backed up to the parts store?” Parasitic draw problem analysis can be a daunting task, especially if poor testing procedures are used. - Source: Internet
  • The first three tests require the use of a digital multimeter. If you don’t have one, you can buy a useful multimeter for around 20 dollars. And you don’t need to have much experience in car repair to apply any of these tests. - Source: Internet
  • For example, a 9V battery is expected to present you with a constant reading of around 0.9 Amps, while testing an O2 sensor presents a result between 0.2 and 1.5 Amps. - Source: Internet
  • So how do we locate the offending circuit without powering down that same circuit using the older power disconnect test methods? We measure the voltage drop across each of the fuses. That’s right, even a fuse has some resistance when heated due to current flow across it. This means the fuse that has current flowing will have a measurable voltage drop across it. Simply set your DMM to the millivolt scale and place the test leads across the fuse as shown in Figure 1. - Source: Internet
  • Parasitic load testing used to consist of removing the negative battery cable and inserting a test lamp in series with that cable to see if enough current flowed across the lamp to light the filament. If the filament did not illuminate to full brightness, it was okay to remove the lamp and wire your 10A-limited ammeter in series to measure the actual draw. Once a parasitic draw was seen, you pulled the fuses, components or relays until the offending current draw disappears. - Source: Internet
  • Using a clamp meter is the safest and most effective way to measure amperage. This method uses an electromagnetic field to sense the current flowing through a conductor, without coming into contact with the live wire. Clamp meters are available in a variety of sizes and styles, so it’s important to choose one that is appropriate for the job at hand. - Source: Internet
  • Using the correct wrench or socket, remove the negative battery cable from the battery post. In our case, we were working on a 2000 Ford Explorer, so the battery terminal used an 8mm bolt. You can perform this test/diagnostic by using the positive or negative cable, but using the negative is much safer. Grounding a negative wire to ground is not a problem; however, grounding the positive could destroy electronics, including your multimeter. - Source: Internet
  • Any time a parasitic draw problem comes to your bay, start with the basics. Is the battery up to the task of producing the power needed to keep the electronic system alive in the car as it is designed? The process should start with verifying that the proper size battery is installed in the vehicle, followed by a proper battery test to verify the condition of the battery. There is nothing more frustrating than spending your valuable time trying to find the source of a problem and have a battery that has excessive self-discharge and goes to sleep on its own when left unused for a few days. - Source: Internet
  • This method no longer works because you have to disconnect the battery in order to install your test equipment. When you disconnect the battery on a modern vehicle, one or more modules or components that might have been awake and drawing current might be put to sleep, temporarily eliminating the very parasitic draw you were attempting to locate. Pulling individual fuses that feed one or more components has the same problem as disconnecting the battery, albeit not as globally. - Source: Internet
  • A great way to keep organized during this investigative process is to access your service information and print out a picture of each fuse box in the vehicle. This provides a map to follow and enables you to make notes about what is happening at each fuse. Once you know which circuit is flowing current, it is time to remove some fuses to see how this affects the current draw through the amp meter that is recording the current flow. Using a logical diagnostic process like this can and will save you a lot of time, unless you get real lucky and pull the correct fuse the first time. Keep in mind that if you pull out a fuse for an electronic module and were wrong, the module will come awake when the fuse is inserted back in its cavity, requiring you to wait until the module powers down before continuing your testing. - Source: Internet
  • No fuses with voltage drop: You may be dealing with a faulty charging system or battery. To do a quick alternator drain power check using your digital multimeter, go to the next section: Bad Alternator Diode Test. If your alternator passes the test, do a battery check using a hydrometer tool. For this, go to the following section: Car Battery Hydrometer Test below. - Source: Internet
  • Car battery problems, specially a parasitic battery drain, are difficult to diagnose sometimes. New vehicle models make it specially difficult, time consuming, and frustrating. They come with more control modules than previous year models and hundreds more electrical circuits. But the amperage battery drain test, voltage drop battery drain test, alternator diode test, and battery hydrometer test will help you chase down the culprit much more easily, whether you have a newer or older vehicle model. - Source: Internet
  • First, test for voltage drop on the fuses for the dashboard clock or stereo and computer’s circuit, which have a small current going through them. Touch one test point on the back of the fuse with one of your meter’s leads and the other fuse test point with the other lead (do not remove any fuses), and watch your meter’s display. Since these circuits have some current, make a note of these readings and use them as reference. - Source: Internet
  • The amperage battery drain test. The voltage drop battery drain test. The bad alternator diode test. The car battery hydrometer test. - Source: Internet
  • The other thing you need to do to properly perform the draw test is the correct values for each system’s parasitic draw. I find it a lot easier to watch the meter values dropping off to their sleep mode when I have a pretty good idea as to which module it is. But this requires me to stand over the meter and be ready to pull fuses (if needed) at a moment’s notice, all of which is time consuming, involves lots of connections that have to be working correctly, as well as a lot of patience on my part. With too many variables, something can, and usually does, go wrong. When it does, I think there has to be a better way. - Source: Internet
  • The best way to conduct this test is to use an inductive ammeter capable of reading DC milliamps. That way you don’t need to disconnect any battery cables; otherwise you can use the following method, but make sure not to open any doors or activate any circuits once your meter is connected or you may destroy your ammeter. Also, try to use a memory saver to preserve your car’s computer and other electronic equipment settings. - Source: Internet
  • If your vehicle has a fuse box under the dashboard—driver’s side—open the driver’s door and use a clamp or similar tool to press and hold the door switch. Leave the door opened. The clamp will keep the dome light off during your test. - Source: Internet

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  • How To Test For Amperage Draw
  • How To Test For Amp Draw
  • How To Test For Current Draw
  • How To Test Amp Draw With Multimeter
  • How To Test For Parasitic Current Draw
How To Test For Amperage Draw - Alternator Check

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