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  • A good primer will augment the topcoat’s ability to resist surface moisture and the ensuing mildew. Starting with a prime coat can extend the repaint cycle from a potentially expensive six months to one year to upwards of two or three years. It might cost you $1,000 extra at the start to use a good primer, but in the long run, you’ll be glad you did. Think of it this way: It’s not about the cost of primer, it’s about the future labor and materials cost. Primers are good preventive medicine. - Source: Internet
  • For new masonry, such as concrete, stucco and other similar surfaces, use a 100 percent acrylic emulsion conditioner. A conditioner will penetrate and seal the surfaces, while bonding any light chalk to the surface to ensure proper topcoat adhesion. These sealers allow seven-day “green” masonry to be coated without the standard 30-day cure, streamlining work time, and will adhere to new or existing concrete with a pH up to 13. Conditioners also offer an economical alternative to priming on pre-painted masonry surfaces. They are particularly useful in cases where the existing masonry topcoat has deteriorated over time. - Source: Internet
  • A second type in this category – block fillers – fill, seal and ensure the uniformity of rough, porous unpainted and textured concrete and cement surfaces. These thick formulations fill small voids commonly found in concrete surfaces for a smooth, uniform finish coat with maximum adhesion, appearance and long-term performance. Specify these when painting exterior flat-surfaced, above-grade concrete blocks, concrete, cement and masonry. - Source: Internet
  • Paint finish is critical to any job’s success – especially in property management. Curb appeal sells. And, it’s more than likely that prospective tenants or buyers will pass by a property with a lackluster, peeling paint job without even bothering to see what’s inside, no matter how posh it might be. - Source: Internet
  • Another category – surfacing primers – smoothes the substrate and permits uniform topcoat sheen. These products achieve this by filling, leveling and sealing porous, rough, uneven and dissimilar surfaces. On masonry, surfacers overcome mortar topcoating issues like alkali burn, delamination and water damage to pave the way for clean, aesthetically pleasing exterior finish coats. Some of the new block surfacers have been designed for exterior application in temperatures as low as 35° F, allowing you to proceed with projects even when the weather gets chilly. - Source: Internet
  • Using the right primer for the job delivers a finish with the ultimate in appearance, value, efficiency and profitability. Don’t suffer the consequences of cutting corners and skipping the valuable prime coat. You’ll regret it in the future. - Source: Internet
  • Acrylic sealing primers don’t simply provide bonding adhesion. They cover and hide stains, graffiti, tannin bleed and other surface damage. Some primers in this category seal out moisture, mildew and efflorescent salts, or block odors. These primers are ideal for delivering the best appearance of flats and enamels on doors and trim, exterior siding, and fresh or existing masonry. - Source: Internet
  • Knowing which kind of primer to use is crucial to the success of any job. All primers are formulated to penetrate, bond and hold out, but some offer greater capabilities. Some primers have high-hiding qualities, while others might hide less but instead excel at blocking stains. Others have higher bonding qualities. The type of surface to be painted, teamed with external conditions, will dictate what kind of primer best suits the job. - Source: Internet
  • Using the earlier example of the enameled exterior door – if the wrong type of primer is applied to that door, i.e., one that has high hiding qualities but lower adhesion, that primer may fail and take the enamel topcoat with it. - Source: Internet
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